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Zusatztext This book offers fresh, new perspectives on the critical role of men’s clothing in fashioning modern Jewish identities. Jews in Suits presents a thought-provoking examination of the sartorial habits of rabbis, politicians, authors and scientists, who granted themselves the authority to shine in the cultural scenes in Vienna and beyond. Informationen zum Autor Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum is an honorary adjunct fellow at the University of Technology Sydney and education officer at the Sydney Jewish Museum. He holds a PhD in dress and design history from the Imagining Fashion Futures Research lab at the University of Technology Sydney, and has published on the intersections between dress, acculturation, and Jewish identity. Klappentext Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods - both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists - all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. Jews in Suits uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self. Vorwort The first book to examine the dress politics of a group of Jewish men who adopted the modern suit – the Jews of modernist Vienna – encompassing the years from the late 19th century to the National Socialist occupation of Austria (Anschluss) in 1938. Zusammenfassung Shortlisted for the Leslie and Sophie Caplan Award for Jewish Non-Fiction Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. Jews in Suits uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, ‘ego-documents’, photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of ‘the Jew’. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self. Inhaltsverzeichnis List of FiguresAcknowledgementsA Note on Place NamesIntroduction1. Europe’s Third Most Jewish City2. Fashioning the Self, Dressing Society: Dress and Identity in Europe’s Third Jewish Capital3. Refashioning the Self: Acculturation, Assimilation, and Clothing4. Strangers in the City: “Rootless” Jews and Urbanity in Vienna5. Der kleine Cohn : Dress and the Function of Mocking...
