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Informationen zum Autor Editors David M. Lewis Department of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK John A. Rippon CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia Klappentext Keratin fibres, particularly wool fibres, constitute an important natural raw material in textiles due to their comfort and thermal proprieties. Wool coloration demands an understanding of the complex nature of the interplay between wool fibre chemistry, morphology and the coloration processes.The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres is a comprehensive treatment, written by leading international experts, of the chemistry and chemical processes involved in wool dyeing, printing, preparation and finishing.The book covers:* the chemical and physical structure of wool keratin fibres, detailing their complex heterogeneity and the subtle links between fibre structure and dyeability* the coloration of fabrics containing wool, including a variety of wool blends such as wool/silk, wool/polyester and wool/cotton, and luxury keratin fibres such as mohair, cashmere and camel* the chemistry of the various types of dyes utilised in wool dyeing and in-depth discussions on the physical properties to optimise these processes* practical application of dyes to wool in all its forms, loose stock, combed tops, yarns and piece goods, is covered in the chapter on wool dyeing machinery* two chapters, one on bleaching and whitening and one on dyeing human hair, provide a valuable extension to the topic of cosmetic chemistryThe Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres is essential reading for professionals world-wide working in companies involved in the dyeing and printing of wool, wool blends and other keratin fibres and also for the producers of dyes and auxiliary dyeing agents. It is a valuable resource for teachers and students of universities and technical institutes, as well as for researchers who are focusing their investigations on wool, wool blends, human hair or dyes and auxiliaries.Published in partnership with the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC).Find out more at www.wiley.com/go/sdc Zusammenfassung Keratin fibers, particularly wool fibers, constitute an important natural raw material in the textile field due to its comfort and thermal proprieties. Filling a gap in the literature, this book covers all general topics related to the dyeing and printing of wool, wool blends, and other keratin fibers. Inhaltsverzeichnis List of Contributors xiii Society of Dyers and Colourists xv Preface xvii 1 The Structure of Wool 1 John A. Rippon 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Composition of Wool 2 1.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 5 1.3.1 General Chemical Structure of Proteins 5 1.3.2 Amino Acid Composition of Wool 6 1.3.3 Arrangement of Amino Acids in Wool 8 1.3.4 The Structure of Wool Proteins 11 1.3.5 Wool Lipids 13 1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 14 1.4.1 The Cuticle and the Fibre Surface 16 1.4.2 The Cortex 23 1.4.3 The Cell Membrane Complex 27 1.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 32 1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 32 1.6.1 Nonkeratinous Proteins and Damage in Dyeing 33 1.6.2 Influence of Dyebath pH on Fibre Damage 34 1.7 Conclusion 35 References 35 2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43 John A. Rippon 2.1 Introduction 43 2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43 2.2.1 The Wool-Water System 44 2.2.2 The Amphoteric Nature of Wool and Dyeing Behaviour 44 2.2.3 Classical Theories of Wool Dyeing 46 2.2.4 Modern Theories of Wool Dyeing 49 2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50 2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 52 2.5 Dye Aggregation 55 2.6 The Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing: The Role of Fibre S...
