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Petra Zeller Dotla c ilova''s study examines the development of theatrical costumes in France during the long 18th century, including the abandonment of long-established traditions, the need to negotiate with the dictates of fashion, and the translation of new ideas into material practice. Using Louis-Rene Boquet (1717-1814) - the leading costume designer of the French court and the Paris Opera - as its lens, the book traces the development of costume reform from an aesthetics of propriety, defined by strict conventions, to an aesthetics of truthfulness, more open to ideas and inspiration from the visual arts and from real life. Full of rich primary source material in the form of newspaper articles, letters, plays, librettos, drawings and images of garments, and illustrated in full colour throughout, the author shows how playwrights, theatre managers, designers, tailors and performers all contributed to the changes in the design and conception of costume during the 18th century.
List of contents
Acknowledgements
Note on Translation
List of Abbreviations
IntroductionStudying historical costume in performance
Boquet: between tradition and reform
Chapter 1: Making of Costume for Performing ArtsDesign Process at the French Court and the Opéra
Costumes at Comédie-Française, Comédie-Italienne and Opéra Comique
Self-fashioning at the Opéra: Designer vs the Soloists
Shaping Costumes According to Performing Arts and Gender
Chapter 2: The Tradition, or the Aesthetics of ProprietyTo Dress Properly: Social Norms of Clothing
'Something rich and yet true to nature': verisimilitude and the merveilleux
The Artistic Genres: Rules and Principles
Dressing the genres: French costumes for opera and ballet before Boquet
Breaking point: Expanding genres and fashions
The freedom of the fairground theatre and the Comédie-Italienne
Chapter 3: The First Wave of Reform, or Towards the Aesthetics of TruthfulnessWhat is a 'truthful costume'?
Les philosophes on costume and dress
The Reform in Practice: The problem of genre
Chapter 4: Reform at the Opéra and the courtBetween the court and the fairground theatre: shepherds, peasants and
Le Devin du villageLe Devin du village: a play with the appearances
First Greeks 'correctly costumed in ancient style' at the Opéra
Old
Alceste in new clothes
'Costumes of all ages and countries'
Chapter 5: How to Dress Dance?Development and diversity of dance techniques
Habit sérieux
Habit demi-caractère
Habit comique
Chapter 6: Towards the Second Wave of the Reform, and BeyondNew fashions, new costumes: the triumph of simplicity
Boquet and Neoclassicism
Stage costume between nature and art
Glossary
Bibliography
List of Illustrations
Index
About the author
Petra Zeller Dotlacilová holds a PhD in Dance Studies from the Academy of Performing Arts in Prague, Czech Republic, as well as a PhD in Theatre Studies from Stockholm University, Sweden. In her research, she specializes on European dance history and theatrical costume of 16th to 18th century. In particular, she explores aesthetic and material properties of costumes, international transfers in design and relations between garments and movement practices.
