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Zusatztext 'The intellectual reach of Fashion Zeitgeist is thrilling. Unconstrained by the empiricist concerns of much Anglo-American scholarship on dress, Vinken presents a challenging new poetics of clothing which will inform subsequent readings of style in significant ways. Its translation into English should be applauded.'Christopher Breward, Victoria Albert Museum'Barbara Vinken brilliantly combines elegance and erudition to produce a subtle and thought-provoking analysis of contemporary dress and its interaction with the past. This is essential reading not only for students of dress history, but also for all fashionistas and anyone interested in the abiding fascination that fashion exerts.'Elizabeth Wilson, author of 'Adorned in Dreams'Barbara Vinken is a sophisticated hostess to the 21st century world of what she calls post-fashion, a dream world whose carnivalesque rhetorics of irony, quotation, of clothes turned upside down and inside out, evokes the utopia of an everyday Ha Informationen zum Autor Barbara Vinken is affiliated to the University of Munich. Klappentext Although it is appealing to think that fashion turns away from conventions! is this really the case? Or are "pioneering" designs simply part of a cyclical revival of forgotten fashions? Looking at some of the most influential designers of the twentieth century--from Yamamoto to Gaultier to Lagerfeld--Vinken considers the politics and philosophies that have been the driving force directing their sense of style. Vinken shows how fashion trends are informed by the past. Chanel! under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld! is viewed as the only fashion house to have remained fresh after one hundred years! yet is this success essentially proof of the self-referential qualities fashion has adopted? What inspired the fetish for labels at the end of the twentieth century? Answering these questions and many more! this thought-provoking book shows how beauty! gender! sexuality! commerce! and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system. Zusammenfassung This volume shows how beauty, gender, sexuality, commerce and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system. Inhaltsverzeichnis Part I: Postfashion * What Fashion Strictly Divided * Adorned in Zeitgeist * High and Low: the End of a Century of FashionPart II: Eight Types of Fashion * Lagerfeld for Chanel: The Griffe * Montana, Mugler: Myth * Dolce and Gabbana: Deep South * Commes des Garcons: Ex Oriente Lux * Yohji Yamamoto: The Secret Sewn in * Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values * Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin and Figure * Martin Margiela: Signs of the Time...
