Fashion Theory - A Reader

This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion. From apparently simple and accessible theories concerning what fashion is to seemingly more difficult or challenging theories concerning globalisation and new media, this collection contextualises different theoretical approaches to identify, analyse and explain the remarkable diversity, complexity and beauty of what we understand and experience every day as fashion and clothing.

This second edition contains entirely new sections on fashion and sustainability, fashion and globalisation, fashion and digital/social media and fashion and the body/prosthesis. It also contains updated and revised sections on fashion, identity and difference, and on fashion and consumption and fashion as communication. More specifically, the section on identity and difference has been updated to include contemporary theoretical debates surrounding Islam and fashion, and LGBT+ communities and fashion and the section on consumption now includes theories of 'prosumption'. Each section has a specialist and dedicated Editor's Introduction which provides essential conceptual background, theoretical contextualisation and critical summaries of the readings in each section.

Bringing together the most influential and ground breaking writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we all think and say about fashion. This second edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader is a timeless and invaluable resource for both the general reader and undergraduate students across a range of disciplines including sociology, cultural studies and fashion studies.

List of contents

Introduction

PART 1: Fashion and Fashion Theories

Introduction

1. Elizabeth Wilson
Explaining it Away

2. Gilles Lipovetsky
The Empire of Fashion: Introduction

3. Barbara Vinken
The Fashion Zeitgeist

4. Pierre Bourdieu
Haute Couture and Haute Culture

PART 2: What Fashion Is and Is Not

Introduction

5. Edward Sapir
Fashion

6. Nancy Troy
Fashion as Art

7. Fred Davis
Antifashion: The Vicissitudes of Negation

8. Georg Simmel
The Philosophy of Fashion

9. Ted Polhemus and Lynn Procter
Fashion and Antifashion

PART 3: Fashion and (the) Image

Introduction

10. Roland Barthes
The Fashion System: Fashion Photography

11. Paul Jobling
Going Beyond The Fashion System

12. Erica Lennard
Doing Fashion Photographs

13. Tamsin Blanchard
Fashion and Graphics: Introduction

PART 4: Sustainable Fashion

Introduction

14. Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Lindsey Carey
Consumers' Perceptions of 'Green''

15. Kate Fletcher
Fashion, Needs and Consumption

16. Alison Gwilt
Fashion and Sustainability: Repairing the Clothes We Wear

PART 5: Fashion as Communication

Introduction

17. Umberto Eco
Social Life as a Sign System

18. Roland Barthes
The Analysis of the Rhetorical System

19. Fred Davis
Do Clothes Speak? What Makes them Fashion?

20. Colin Campbell
When the Meaning is not a Message: A Critique of the Consumption as Communication Thesis

21. Malcolm Barnard
Fashion as Communication Revisited

PART 6: Fashion: Identity and Difference

Introduction

Gender

22. Tim Edwards
Express Yourself: The Politics of Dressing Up

23. Lee Wright
Objectifying Gender: The Stiletto Heel

24. Joanne Entwistle
Power Dressing and The Construction of the Career Woman

LGBT+

25. Annamari Vänskä
From Gay to Queer - Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already A Very Queer Thing?

26. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes

Social Class

27. Angela Partington
Popular Fashion and Working-Class Affluence

28. Herbert Blumer
Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection

Ethnicity and Race

29. Emil Wilbekin
Great Aspirations: Hip Hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success

30. Reina Lewis
Muslim Fashion: Taste and Distinction; The Politics of Style

31. Emma Tarlo
Visibly Muslim: Islamic Fashion Scape

32. Carol Tulloch
You Should Understand, It's a Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie - Steve Biko T-Shirt

PART 7: Fashion, Clothes and The Body

Introduction

33. Joanne Entwistle
Addressing the Body

34. Ingun Grimstad Klepp & Mari Rysst
Deviant Bodies and Suitable Clothes

35. Laini Burton & Jana Melkumova-Reynolds
'My Leg is a Giant Stiletto Heel': Fashioning the Prosthetised Body

36. Malcolm Barnard
Fashion, Clothes and The Body

PART 8: Fashion: Production, Consumption, Prosumption

Introduction

37. Marco Pedroni
The Crossroad between Production and Consumption

38. Tim Dant
Consuming or Living with Things? Wearing it Out

39. Tommy Tse and Ling Tung Tsang
Reconceptualising Prosumption

40. Kate Fletcher
Attentiveness, Materials, and Their Use

41. Daniel Miller
The Little Black Dress is the Solution, but what is the Problem?"

PART 9: Modern Fashion
Introduction

42. Elizabeth Wilson
Adorned in Dreams: Introduction

43. Kurt Back
Modernism and Fashion

44. Richard Sennett
Public Roles/Personality in Public

45. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Walter Benjamin: Fashion, Modernity and the City Street

PART 10: Post-modern Fashion

Introduction

46. Jean Baudrillard
The Ideological Genesis of Needs/Fetishism and Ideology

47. Jean Baudrillard
Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code

48. Kim Sawchuk
A Tale of Inscription: Fashion Statements

49. Alison Gill
Deconstruction Fashion

PART 11: Digital/New Media and Fashion

Introduction

50. Sandra Lee Bartky
Narcissism, Femininity and Alienation

51. Agnès Rocamora
Personal Fashion Blogs

52. Katrin Tiidenberg
Bringing Sexy Back: Reclaiming the Body Aesthetic via Self-Shooting

53. Agnès Rocamora
Mediatization and Digital Media in the Field of Fashion

PART 12: Global and Transnational Fashion

Introduction

54. Malcolm Barnard
Globalization and Colonialism

55. Jan Brand and Jose Teunissen
From Global Fashion/Local Tradition

56. Ian Skoggard,
Transnational Commodity Flows and the Global Phenomenon of the Brand

57. Olga Gurova
Body, gender and discourse on fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 1960s

58. Lise Skov
Hong Kong Fashion Designers as Cultural Intermediaries

About the author

Malcolm Barnard is Senior Lecturer in Visual Culture at Loughborough University, UK.

Summary

This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion.

Product details

• Authors: Malcolm Barnard, Malcolm (University of Loughborough Barnard
• Publisher: Taylor & Francis Ltd.
• Languages: English
• Product format: Paperback / Softback
• Released: 04.08.2020
• EAN: 9781138296947
• ISBN: 978-1-138-29694-7
• No. of pages: 830
• Series: Routledge Student Readers
• Subjects: Humanities, art, music > Art > Interior design, design; SOCIAL SCIENCE / Sociology / General, SCIENCE / Philosophy & Social Aspects, DESIGN / Fashion & Accessories, Fashion & society, Fashion design & theory, Fashion and textile design, Cultural studies: dress and society