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Textiles have been a highly valued part of many Indigenous societies across the world and over millennia. This pathbreaking book examines the large woven ceremonial cloths known as pua kumbu, long associated with the Iban peoples of the interior of Sarawak, Malaysia. In both scholarly and popular studies of these sacred cloths, the process of creating pua kumbu is identified explicitly with the women who weave them, using oral tradition for the passing on of designs and practice, in a task that is skilful, physically demanding and strenuous. Based on more than a decade of ethnographic fieldwork and collaborative engagement with a longhouse community, this study seeks to break new ground, both empirically and conceptually. It is framed around a number of key themes: the origins, symbolism and use of the cloths; the place of female weavers in Iban society; the creative tension between conservation, innovation and transformation; and the significance of insider Indigenous knowledge for sustainable community development. Enriching Iban Pua Kumbu is a valuable work for advanced students, researchers and general readers interested in the intersection of material culture, social status and community engagement, such as cultural anthropologists, archaeologists, economists, museum curators and historians.
List of contents
List of Figures.- Abbreviations and Acronyms.- Preface and Acknowledgements.- Chapter 1: Introduction: Indigenous Knowledge and Community Experience.- Chapter 2: The Iban Pua Kumbu Weaving Tradition: Origins, Symbolism, Use.- Chapter 3: Social Stratification of the Women Weavers.- Chapter 4: Transforming the Weaving Tradition.- Chapter 5: Conservation of Intangible Knowledge.- Chapter 6: Taking Research and Community Engagement beyond the Academic.- Chapter 7: The Sustainability of Pua Kumbu Weaving: Production and Future Opportunities.- Chapter 8: Conclusion.- Glossary of Non-English Terms.- Bibliography.- Index.
About the author
Welyne Jeffrey Jehom is a senior lecturer in the Department of Anthropology and Sociology and the former head of the Centre of Malaysian Indigenous Studies, both at Universiti Malaya. Trained in the anthropology of development, her main research and teaching interests are in the fields of Indigenous knowledge and community development, women and empowerment, and material culture, with a focus on Sarawak. She has published scholarly articles in AlterNative: An International Journal of Indigenous Peoples, Indonesia and the Malay World, American Anthropologist and Asian Journal of Women’s Studies. She has curated major exhibitions of pua kumbu textiles at Universiti Malaya Art Gallery, the George Town Festival and the Rainforest Fringe Festival.
Summary
Textiles have been a highly valued part of many Indigenous societies across the world and over millennia. This pathbreaking book examines the large woven ceremonial cloths known as pua kumbu, long associated with the Iban peoples of the interior of Sarawak, Malaysia. In both scholarly and popular studies of these sacred cloths, the process of creating pua kumbu is identified explicitly with the women who weave them, using oral tradition for the passing on of designs and practice, in a task that is skilful, physically demanding and strenuous. Based on more than a decade of ethnographic fieldwork and collaborative engagement with a longhouse community, this study seeks to break new ground, both empirically and conceptually. It is framed around a number of key themes: the origins, symbolism and use of the cloths; the place of female weavers in Iban society; the creative tension between conservation, innovation and transformation; and the significance of insider Indigenous knowledge for sustainable community development. Enriching Iban Pua Kumbu is a valuable work for advanced students, researchers and general readers interested in the intersection of material culture, social status and community engagement, such as cultural anthropologists, archaeologists, economists, museum curators and historians.
