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Zusatztext A welcome anthology of fashion criticism establishing that writing about fashion can be as influential as designing it. Ranging across late nineteenth century gazettes, twentieth century newspapers and twenty-first century posts, it’s a key reference work for reading about how fashion measures up. Informationen zum Autor Francesca Granata is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design. She is the author of Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body, and editor of the non-profit journal Fashion Projects. This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture. Zusammenfassung This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan—the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize—and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called “women’s pages” to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz ( Vogue ), Bebe Moore Campbell ( Ebony ), Angela Carter ( New Statesman ) and Hilton Als ( New Yorker) .Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde’s editorials in The Woman’s World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today’s proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism. Inhaltsverzeichnis Acknowledgments viiiIntroduction 1 PART I Late Nineteenth Century–1960s Introduction to PART I 131 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman’s Dress Oscar Wilde 172 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) Oscar Wilde 193 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King’s Highway? Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 234 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 275 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 316 Feminine Fashions Lois Long 357 Feminine Fashions Lois Long 378 Copying a Fancy Name Elizabeth Hawes 399 News … News … News … Elizabeth Hawes 4510 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga Eugenia Sheppard 5111 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard 5312 A Campaign Issue—Clothes? Eleni Epstein 5513 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion’s Slate Eleni Epstein 57 PART II 1970s–1990s Introduction to PART II 6114 The Wound in the Face Angela Carter 6515 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II Kennedy Fraser 6916 Looking with Avedon Susan Sontag 7717 What Happened to the Afro? Bebe Moore Campbell 8118 Ralph Lauren’s Achievement Holly Brubach 8719 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded Holly Brubach 9520 Haute Coiffure de Gel Elizabeth Wilson 10321 Hippie Heaven Eve Babitz 10722 Calvinism Unclothed Valerie ...
