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Excerpt from The Late Glacial and Post Glacial Uplift of the Michigan Basin: Earthquakes in Michigan
Wherever in its forward movement the wave approaches the shore and the sea bottom thus comes to be above wave base, friction against the bottom retards the motion of the wave in its lower portions. Inertia of motion carries the relatively unimpeded upper portions of the wave forward above the lower. There results a pil ing up of the water which increases the wave height, and also a turning movement, or couple, which causes the modified wave to fall forward or break (breakers, surf, combers) With the breaking of the wave, its energy is quickly dissipated. If the shore is very steep and bordered by relatively steep under water slopes, the water of the breaking wave is hurled against the shore with a certain impact resembling the blow of a hammer.
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