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Zusammenfassung Originally published in 1934! this book identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. The book also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation. Inhaltsverzeichnis Preface; Bibliography; Part I. The Size and Speed of Ocean Waves in Relation to the Velocity of Wind: 1. Measurements from a ship hove-to during a storm; 2. Observations at sea on the effect of squalls upon waves; 3. Observations of the period of breakers indicating the limiting speeds of waves and the relation to speed of wind; 4. The height of ocean waves measured from ships on their course; 5. On the sea-room required for the full development of waves; 6. The steepness of waves on oceans, inland seas and lakes; 7. The reaction of ocean swell upon the wind; Part II. Waves in Sand and Snow Formed and Propelled by Wind and Current: 8. Waves in sand formed and propelled by wind; 9. Waves in drifting snow; 10. Sub-aqueous sand waves; Part III. Tidal Bores and Other Progressive Waves in Rivers: 11. On the discharge of a progressive from a standing wave in the Rapids of Niagara; 12. Roll waves in shallow water flowing in a flat-bottomed channel; 13. On tidal bores which assume the form of a group of short waves; Additional notes Harold Jeffreys; Index.
