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Today, the allure of finely carved cameos is drawing a new generation of both savvy collectors and gifted artists who are captivated by their transcendental elegance. This book offers critical information for the novice, advanced collector, jewelry dealer, curator and appraiser-for all who buy and sell cameos, or who are just fascinated by them.
List of contents
C o n t e n t s
DEDICATION x
PREFACE TO THE 4TH EDITION xi
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xv
1
THE HISTORY AND ROMANCE
OF THE GLYPTIC ARTS 1
THE EARLIEST ENGRAVINGS 3
CLASSICAL GREECE: FROM SCARABOID TO CAMEO 7
ROMAN CAMEOS 13
THE DARK AND MIDDLE AGES 22
THE RENAISSANCE AND LATER 27
2
THE SUBJECTS: MYTHS, LEGENDS,
HISTORICAL EVENTS,AND STORIES
BEHIND THE JEWELS 37
MYTHS AND LEGENDS 38
DECIPHERING CUPIDS, CHERUBS, PUTTI, AND PSYCHE 49
SYMBOLS 53
PORTRAITS 55
HISTORICAL EVENTS AND STORIES BEHIND THE JEWELS 56
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3
CAMEO PRODUCTION 62
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 62
MATERIALS 79
THE REEMERGENCE OF COLORED GEMSTONES
AND NEW CAMEO MATERIALS 84
CARVING CENTERS AND RENOWNED CARVERS 117
4
DISTINGUISHING OLD
AND NEW CAMEOS 130
CIRCA-DATING CAMEOS 131
UNCOVERING INTENTIONAL CAMEO FAKES, FRAUDS, AND FORGERIES 155
5
ALTERNATE CAMEO MATERIALS
AND CAMEO IMITATORS 171
MOUNT VESUVIUS LAVA—THE ITALIAN CAMEO STONE 171
GLASS CAMEOS 173
CAMEO GLASS 178
TASSIE GLASS 181
WEDGWOOD 182
SULPHIDES 185
CAMEO WAX PORTRAITS 185
PLASTER OF PARIS AND SULPHUR CASTS 187
PLASTIC CAMEOS 191
POLYMER CLAY CAMEOS 192
RESIN-MADE CAMEOS 192
POURED OR MOLDED CAMEOS 193
OTHER CAMEO MATERIALS OLD AND NEW 194
CONTENTS
vi
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6
APPRECIATING CAMEOS AS ART 198
EVALUATING THE AUTHENTICITY OF A CAMEO 200
SECURING A PROPER APPRAISAL FOR A CAMEO 206
ELEMENTS OF VALUE 216
7
BUILDING A CAMEO COLLECTION 226
WHY DOES ANYONE COLLECT ANYTHING? 226
BUYING AND SELLING CAMEOS 231
CAMEOS AS INVESTMENT GEMS 240
CARE AND CONSERVATION OF CAMEOS 242
8
GREAT AND HISTORIC COLLECTIONS 248
HISTORY BEING CARVED TODAY 267
9
CAMEO ARTISTRY 272
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN THE UNITED STATES 272
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN GERMANY 282
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN PANAMA 294
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN RUSSIA 297
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN ITALY 298
KEEPING THE ART ALIVE IN TURKEY 300
CONTENTS
vii
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10
THE MARKETS FOR BUYING CAMEOS 305
BUYING AT AUCTION 305
BUYING FROM AN ANTIQUE DEALER 317
BUYING NEW CAMEOS FROM THE RETAIL JEWELER 332
BUYING CAMEOS VIA THE INTERNET 333
BUYING CAMEOS VIA THE TV 344
11
THE FUTURE OF THE CAMEO 346
ESTIMATING CAMEO VALUE: QUALITY RANKING CAMEOS 355
CHRONOLOGY OF ENGRAVED STONES
AND CAMEOS IN EUROPE 361
GLOSSARY OF GLYPTIC-ART AND JEWELRY TERMS 365
SUGGESTED READINGS AND BIBLIOGRAPHY
About the author
Anna M. Miller, G.G., RMV, was a jewelry historian, author, lecturer, and instructor. The developer of The MasterValuer Program™, a jewelry appraisal course that has been taught worldwide, she consulted with individuals and companies on buying, selling, appraising and interpreting the jewelry arts. Miller was the author of five books on gems and jewelry, including Gems & Jewelry Appraising: Techniques of Professional Practice, the first comprehensive work about gem and jewelry appraising; and Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising: Antique, Period & Modern (both GemStone Press).
Diana Jarrett, G.G., RMV, an award-winning trade journalist, is a member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA). While studying at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Jarrett began working at Sotheby's Beverly Hills for their important jewels auctions, and at the same time writing for custom jewelry designers.
She is a popular speaker on the topics of gems, rare stones and jewelry. Her syndicated column "The Story Behind the Stone" has been a staple in Southern Jewelry News and Mid-America Jewelry News for years. She is a contributing editor for Texas Jewelers magazine, New York Mineralogical Club Bulletin, Colored Stone Magazine, Jewellery Business (Canada), American Gem Society (AGS) and many other trade and consumer publications. Jarrett currently serves as colored gemstone editor for Rapaport Diamond Report. Contact her at info@dianajarrett.com or by visiting her website: www.dianajarrett.com.
Summary
Today, the allure of finely carved cameos is drawing a new generation of both savvy collectors and gifted artists who are captivated by their transcendental elegance. This book offers critical information for the novice, advanced collector, jewelry dealer, curator and appraiser—for all who buy and sell cameos, or who are just fascinated by them.
Additional text
This fourth edition is a comprehensive reference guide for buyers, collectors, appraisers, and dealers on the quality and value of cameos. Diana Jarrett brings extensive new information to the text, originally written by the late jewelry expert Anna Miller, including new manufacturing methods, new resources, and a guide to determine the value of older cameos. For more information, visit www.gemstonepress.com.
