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One of the world's most well-traveled rock climbers, Russ Clune takes us on an up-close journey though the evolution of the sport over the decades.
From his home turf in the Gunks of New York State, to cliffs in far flung regions of the planet, Clune brings to life hilarious and sometimes horrifying escapades while he tests his mettle. Along the way, he deftly illustrates the changes that morphed rock climbing from a dirtbag activity for somewhat eccentric people to today’s Olympic sport status for its most dedicated practitioners. As Clune travels, the reader is introduced to a who’s-who of climbers of the past and pulled into the experiences that created special bonds and lifelong friendships. Russ Clune's journey through climbing is a thrilling exploration of the pivotal moments that have shaped modern climbing. From seeking the hardest routes to exploring new areas and savoring climbing partnerships, Clune's stories mirror the evolving arc that every climber experiences-from what you climb to where you climb and, ultimately, who you climb with.
"The Lifer" is more than a climbing memoir; it's an invitation to experience the thrill, challenges, and camaraderie that define a lifelong love affair with the rock. Whether you're a climber or an adventurous reader, don't miss this unforgettable journey through the evolution of a sport and a life lived on the edge.
List of contents
CONTENTSForeword // 13
Introduction // 17
Discovering a World of Stone // 23
My New Backyard in the Gunks // 41
Westward Ha! A Road Trip for Rock and Romance // 60
Bon Voyage! What’s Up Across the Sea? // 81
Toward the Setting Sun; Red Rock and Gray Granite // 110
The Wizards of Oz and Tasmanian Devils // 130
Home Is Where the Overhangs Are; Bringing the Gunks Up To Speed // 143
Go East, Young Man; A Trip behind the Wall // 164
Gamsahabnida! Kimchi and Crack Climbs // 187
Storming the Castle and Everything Goes Sideways // 196
Homage and Coming to Terms with a New World Order // 220
Close Encounters; A Quest for Speed and a Cultural Train Wreck // 225
Changes: It’s Always Later Than You Think // 242
Epilogue // 257
Author Bio // 269
Acknowledgements // 271
About the author
Russ Clune is a rock climber living in the Shawangunk Mountains of New York. His articles have been published in multiple journals, including Climbing, Rock & Ice, Mountain, Alpinist, Der Bergsteiger, Iwa To Yuki, The Patagonia Catalog, and Urban Climber. Clune has been climbing for over forty-five years and was one of America’s best rock climbers during his peak in the 1980s. He is also one of the world’s most well-traveled rock climbers. Clune was part of the employee group that created the leading climbing-gear company, Black Diamond Equipment, where he worked for thirty years. He remains an active climber and continues to travel the globe seeking new adventures.
Summary
One of the world’s most well-traveled rock climbers, Russ Clune takes us on an up-close journey though the evolution of the sport over the decades. From his home turf in the Gunks of New York State, to cliffs in far flung regions of the planet, Clune brings to life hilarious and sometimes horrifying escapades while he tests his mettle. Along the way, he deftly illustrates the changes that morphed rock climbing from a dirtbag activity for somewhat eccentric people to today’s Olympic sport status for its most dedicated practitioners. As Clune travels, the reader is introduced to a who’s-who of climbers of the past and pulled into the experiences that created special bonds and lifelong friendships. Russ Clune's journey through climbing is a thrilling exploration of the pivotal moments that have shaped modern climbing. From seeking the hardest routes to exploring new areas and savoring climbing partnerships, Clune's stories mirror the evolving arc that every climber experiences—from what you climb to where you climb and, ultimately, who you climb with.
"The Lifer" is more than a climbing memoir; it's an invitation to experience the thrill, challenges, and camaraderie that define a lifelong love affair with the rock. Whether you're a climber or an adventurous reader, don't miss this unforgettable journey through the evolution of a sport and a life lived on the edge.
